Makalu Barun Base Camp: My Epic Himalayan Adventure

Nestled in the heart of Makalu Barun National Park, Makalu Base Camp, at an altitude of approximately 4,800 meters (15,748 feet), beckons adventurous souls with its imposing beauty and remote charm. My recent trek to this breathtaking location, undertaken in September, was an experience that will forever be etched in my memory, pushing me both physically and emotionally, while rewarding me with unparalleled natural splendor and cultural encounters.

Setting the Stage:

My journey began in the bustling capital of Kathmandu, a city brimming with energy and the starting point for countless Himalayan adventures. Bidding farewell to the vibrant streets, I boarded a flight to Biratnagar, the gateway to eastern Nepal. From there, an SUV ride through the scenic countryside led me to Khandbari, followed by a further journey to Num, a quaint village marking the official starting point of the trek. Chamla Kharka, nestled amidst the warmth of the Tamang community, served as our first stop, offering a glimpse into the diverse tapestry of cultures within the region.

Day 1: Chamla Kharka (2,330m) – Tashi Gaun (2,600m)

Waking up to the crisp mountain air and the call of the Himalayas, we embarked on our journey into Makalu Barun National Park at dawn. Seduwa, a vibrant village nestled at the confluence of the Arun and Hongu rivers, served as our first stop. Here, we acquired the necessary permits and fueled up with a hearty "dal-bhat" (lentil soup and rice), a staple Nepali dish. Pressing onwards, we traversed Mane Gaun and Chakse Danda, witnessing the captivating beauty of the region, despite the persistent rain that accompanied us throughout the day. By 4 pm, we reached Tashi Gaun, the last permanent settlement on the route to Makalu Base Camp, offering solace in the warmth of the local teahouse and a well-deserved rest.

Day 2: Tashi Gaun (2,600m) – Khungma (3,600m)

With the sun barely peeking over the horizon, we set off for Khungma, aiming to reach before dusk. The relentless rain continued to pose a challenge, making the already rugged trail slippery. However, the camaraderie among our group and the anticipation of reaching our destination fueled our spirits. Encountering a swollen river along the way, we crossed it cautiously, aware of the potential dangers it posed. Reaching Danda Kharka by 9:30 am, a sense of relief washed over us. Kipa Sherpa, a remarkable woman managing the lone lodge, greeted us with a warm smile and resilience.

Continuing our journey, Kipa equipped us with plastic rain covers, and by 3 pm, we reached Khungma, a serene meadow known for its grazing yaks, naks (female yaks), sheep, and goats. With only three teahouses catering to trekkers, we found solace at Shiva Guest House. Pasang Doma, the owner, surprised us with a heater, a much-needed respite to dry our damp clothes. As we huddled around the warmth, sharing stories with Pasang and the porters, the aroma of wild mushrooms, plucked fresh from the jungle and destined to be our dinner, filled the air. Hunger or the novelty, I cannot tell, but it remains the most delicious mushroom curry I have ever savored.

Day 3: Khungma (3,600m) – Yangle Kharka (3,800m)

The gentle pitter-patter of rain continued to be our morning lullaby. While the downpour instilled a sense of laziness, the spirit of exploration prevailed. We braved the rain, setting off from Khungma at our usual 6:30 am. The rain gradually subsided, but the cloudy weather persisted, obscuring the view from the viewpoint an hour's walk away. Reaching Sanopokhari, a small black pond, required another 90 minutes of walking. Reaching Thulo Danda (also known as Sipton La Pass), where a lunch stop awaited, we met Dawa Sherpa, a guide renowned for leading trekkers to Shivadhara, a pilgrim site within the Makalu-Barun region.

After replenishing our energy with a hearty lunch, we descended towards Yangle Kharka, passing the impressive Thulopokhari, reportedly four times the size of Sanopokhari. This area is frequented by locals seeking the prized yarsagumba, a rare caterpillar fungus. Crossing another pass and descending 1,000 meters, we finally reached Yangle Kharka by 5 pm, our clothes once again damp from the persistent rain. After drying our belongings and indulging in a delicious dinner, we retired for the night, eager for the next day's adventures, which included a challenging ascent to Shivadhara.

Day 4: Yangle Kharka (3,800m) – Shivadhara (4,400m) – Langmaale Kharka (3,720m)

According to our fellow trekkers, visiting Shivadhara before Makalu Base Camp was more strategic due to the demanding nature of the ascent. This meant an even earlier start, with headlamps illuminating our path at 5:30 am. Leaving all unnecessary items behind in Neha Kharka, a temporary storage point, we embarked on the challenging climb towards Shivadhara, a nearly 700-meter elevation gain. The word "crazy" barely does justice to this section of the trail. One specific stretch, known as "via ferrata," involved walking on iron rods bolted onto a cliff face, sending shivers down my spine with every step.

Although the weather wasn't ideal, occasional glimpses offered breathtaking views of the Barun Valley, a memory I will forever cherish. However, our time was limited, and we needed to return to Neha Kharka, have lunch, and continue to Langmaale Kharka.

Just as we were about to leave Shivadhara, one of our friends started exhibiting signs of altitude sickness. In the interest of his safety, we urged him to return to Neha Kharka. From here, the remaining two of us continued at our own pace, eventually reaching Langmaale Kharka. As we sat near the warmth of a heater, a sense of surprise washed over us when we saw our friend, accompanied by Dawa, walk in. He had refused to give up and, after convincing us of his ability to continue, joined us for dinner and a well-deserved rest.

Day 5: Langmaale Kharka (3,720m) – Makalu Base Camp (Setopokhari) (4,800m) – Phemathang (3,250m)

The long-awaited day of reaching Makalu Base Camp had finally arrived. We woke up before dawn, starting our journey at 4:30 am. Leaving all unnecessary items behind, as we would be returning the same way, we traversed the initial part with headlamps illuminating our path. As daylight broke, the sight of Mount Tutse (also known as Peak Six) shrouded in mist greeted us. While rain had been a constant companion throughout the trek, this day offered a welcome change - clear skies. Reaching the viewpoint near Merak, close to the Shersong Glacier, the clouds parted, revealing Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain in the world, in all its glory. It felt like an encounter with something truly majestic.

However, Makalu Base Camp, also known as Setopokhari, still lay ahead, and with an altitude of nearly 5,000 meters, it began to take its toll on us. Dawa's worsening headache became a concern, coupled with the ever-present threat of changing weather. Slowly but steadily, we reached Makalu Base Camp by around 9:30 am. Standing there, Makalu stood tall before us, leaving me speechless. Words fail to capture the experience of witnessing this awe-inspiring pyramid-shaped mountain in person.

After spending nearly an hour cherishing the view, Dawa's worsening headache prompted us to begin our descent. We prioritized reaching Langmaale before noon, where lunch awaited, followed by a further descent to Phemathang, almost 1,200 meters below. The long descent was physically demanding, and with our knees protesting, the rain added another layer of discomfort. However, by nightfall, we reached Phemathang, where we shared stories with a shepherd, who recounted a recent bear attack in the area, adding a tinge of worry for the next day's challenges, which included crossing swollen rivers. Nevertheless, exhaustion led us to drift off to sleep, pushing these worries aside.

Day 6: Phemathang (3,250m) – Tashi Gaun (2,600m)

This day tested our physical and mental resilience. It demanded a 1,000-meter ascent followed by a grueling 2,000-meter descent. We started with a silent prayer for favorable weather, along with the hope of navigating the landslide zone and swollen river safely. Crossing the river barefoot marked the beginning of our ascent towards Sipton La Pass. Reaching Dobate for lunch was our initial plan, but the only lodge there was closed, forcing us to continue onward to Thulo Danda. Although we missed lunch, the view from Dobate was breathtaking. Lush green meadows, resembling a vast green carpet laid across the hills, complemented by cascading waterfalls, formed a mesmerizing panorama.

Reaching Thulo Danda around noon, our first priority was to connect with our families, informing them of our successful Makalu Base Camp conquest. A warm meal and a brief rest revitalized us for the remaining descent. At Sano Pokhari, one of our friends even managed to purchase yarsagumba, a prized treasure of this region.

By the time we reached Danda Kharka, fatigue had set in. Kipa Sherpa, the same lodge owner we met earlier, warmly welcomed us and offered accommodation for the night. While tempted, our desire to reach Tashi Gaun that day fueled our steps. Kipa's son tried his best to convince us to stay, but with a touch of regret, we continued towards Tashi Gaun, reaching by 5:30 pm, utterly exhausted.

There, we learned about our remarkable pace. "You walked like locals," Tsering, a local resident, exclaimed. While the compliment didn't quite hold weight considering our state of exhaustion, what truly mattered was the overwhelming sense of accomplishment. We had reached both Makalu Base Camp and Shivadhara, returning safely – a feat that filled us with immense satisfaction. Now, all we longed for was to return home and reunite with our families.

Day 7: Tashi Gaun (2,600m) – Num (1,460m) – Khadbari (1,100m)

Basking in the golden rays of the sun, we began our final day of walking with rejuvenated spirits and light hearts. The previous day's hardships seemed distant as we sang along, enjoying the scenic beauty that surrounded us. Reaching Seduwa by 9 am, we indulged in a hearty "dal-bhat" before continuing towards Num, the official end of our trek.

The trek was nearing its end, and despite complaining about the constant rain throughout, the scorching sun on this day presented a different challenge. The last SUV from Num left at 2 pm, urging us to walk briskly. The humidity and heat sapped our energy, but we finally reached Num by 3 pm.

With the possibility of missing the ride down to Khandbari looming large, we managed to find a vehicle, reaching Khandbari by 7 pm, marking the conclusion of our trek. Now, only the journey back to Kathmandu remained.

Day 8: Khandbari (1,100m) – Itahari (133m) – Kathmandu (1,350m)

The lack of showers for over a week made an early morning shower a compelling necessity before hopping on the SUV towards Itahari. The journey traversed Tumlingtar, Leguwaghat, Pakhribas, Hile Bazaar, and Dharan, finally reaching Itahari by 1 pm.

From there, we boarded an auto rickshaw to Biratnagar airport, where our flight back to Kathmandu awaited.

Reaching Kathmandu, a wave of emotions washed over me. Relief at the successful completion of the trek, gratitude for the incredible experiences, and a touch of sadness for leaving behind the majestic mountains all intertwined. The Makalu Base Camp trek stands out as one of the most enriching experiences of my life. Every memory, from the challenging climbs to the breathtaking scenery, brings a smile to my face. Even though just a day had passed, I already found myself missing the mountains, the rivers, the meadows, and the serene ponds. This journey will undoubtedly stay engraved in my memory for years to come.

The total distance covered during this trek is approximately 150 kilometers (93 miles) and can take anywhere between 14 to 18 days to complete, depending on the itinerary and pace. While challenging, the Makalu Base Camp trek offers an unparalleled opportunity to witness the raw beauty of the Himalayas and experience the rich culture of the region. If you are seeking an adventure that will push your limits and leave you with lasting memories, then the Makalu Base Camp trek is definitely worth considering.